Matt Grady Photo
This past September, friends and I did a road trip through Germany and Austria over 10 days. We got a good deal with Air Transat, with whom I booked a return flight to Amsterdam in 2006. Three of us would fly into Frankfurt and meet up with two others along the way. Leaving Frankfurt, our itinerary included Würzburg, Rothenburg, Nürnberg, Passau, Vienna, Salzburg, Neuschwanstein castle, Dachau and Munich. We had the fortune of staying with friends in Vienna and Munich, diligent tour guides who balanced our visit with popular tourist attractions, and restaurants, pubs and nightclubs enjoyed by the locals.
The majority of our trip is documented in pictures, a selection of which I've posted on Flickr. It was a very memorable, worthwhile experience, and I hope to return to Germany, Austria and perhaps Prague one day. If you're considering travelling there, I highly recommend Rick Steves' travel guides. He provides valuable insight and is frank about what's worth visiting.
I started a travel journal, but as we were often driving, exploring or spending nights out, I didn't get far . . .
05 Sep 2007
After a field hockey tournament in West Vancouver during Labour Day weekend, Ted, Chris and I headed to the airport for 7 a.m. With only carry-on luggage, we boarded the Air Transat flight to Frankfurt, Germany around 9 a.m., with a stop in Edmonton.
Very uncomfortable flight, with us three tall guys sharing a row, and the people seated in front of us not hesitating to lower the backs of their seats. Arrived in Frankfurt around 5 a.m. local time with a crick in my neck.
At the airport, after arranging for a car rental, we made our way to our assigned parking spot only to find a black Porsche Carrera S2 . . . which wasn't our car unfortunately. What an experience the autobahn could have been though!
After coffee and pastries, we picked up another friend, Ashley, from the hostel near the central train station - in the red light district. Reading in our guide books (including the indispensable Rick Steves) that Frankfurt is a typical big city with skyscrapers and modern architecture, we hit the autobahn.
We've rented an Audi diesel station wagon, and Ted was wise to request a car with a GPS system. Vocal directions are given by the computer, which has proven to be a godsend.
The autobahn is an efficient highway, with cars speeding by in the left lane at 180+ km/hr. We've managed 180-210 in the passing lane, depending on the driver.
Leaving Frankfurt, we drove to Würzburg. Great views of lush green woods from the autobahn.
In Würzburg, we parked near the Main river and walked around town, which was rebuilt after World War II. Saw the Residenz (Prince Bishop's palace), a "Franconian Versailles," and accompanying well-maintained, Baroque gardens. On our way to the Marktplatz (Market Square), we bought bratwurst on a bun from a vendor [the first of many - mg]. Sehr gut.
Beside the produce market is the Marienkapelle, a Gothic church, containing sandstone statues of the 12 apostles and Jesus.
We then crossed the river and hiked uphill to the 13th-century Festung Marienberg (Marienberg Fortress), "original residence of Würzburg's Prince Bishop," rebuilt after the Thirty Years' War. Incredible view of the city from the fortress, including the spires of St. Kilian's Cathedral and the Neumunster Basilica.
Had lunch at the fort and tried our best at ordering in German, as there were no English menus and the waitress only spoke German. I had bratwurst with potatoes and bacon, with a glass of Radler (beer and Sprite).
07 Sep 2007
Beer is typically available in 0.3 L for Pils (barley-based) and 0.5 L (ein Halbe) for Hefeweizen (wheat-based).
We returned to the car and, making several GPS-instructed turns to find the city centre again, we then drove to Rothenburg.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber (over the Tauber river) is situated between Frankfurt and Munich, along Romantische Strasse (Romantic Road). It is Germany's "best-preserved medieval-walled town." Many tourists around during the day, thus many shops, cafés and restaurants around market square to accommodate them. Christmas souvenir shops are popular, as are bakeries selling Schneeballen, "bland pie crusts crumpled into a ball and dusted with powdered sugar or frosted with sticky-sweet glop." Dry tasting and a four-to-six week shelf life.
We stayed at the cozy, tidy Gasthof zur Goldenen Rose hotel inside the walls, complete with painted dressers, flower-filled window boxes and a back garden. Recommended.
That evening, we took the Night Watchman's Tour. Dressed in period attire and holding a lamp and pike, the guide makes his rounds while offering an intriguing, witty account (in English) of Rothenburg's medieval history. Tour lasts an hour.
Taking the Watchman's advice, we went to hell - Trinkstube zur Holle (Hell) pub, that is. This 15th-century pub is built on a 10th- century foundation.
The next morning, we walked the city wall, "just over a mile and a half around." My head was bent for most of the walk, as the wood crossbeams are better suited for those under six feet. Great views of the town though.
Random notes:
- We only refilled our diesel car once, upon leaving Vienna, after travelling approximately 842 km on 3/4 tank. Cost us 60 € (around CDN$90 at the time).
- In Austria, greetings include "Ciao!" and "Servus!" (or "Sers!" for short). As I remembered from Latin class, servus means servant, and the Austrian greeting is the equivalent of "your humble servant."
- In Austria, 0.33 L of beer is a seiterl and 0.5 L is a krügerl.
